WKB Tour 2012 - Gunsan and Goodbye, Day 3

Jinpo Marine Theme Park in Gunsan, Jeollabuk-do

Today I'd like to tell you about the last day of the special reward trip that I earned by blogging for the second round of the Korea Blog. The other WKBs Annabel and Ema, Gisela, Maria, Dorothea, Asif, and I arrived in Gunsan on our last day. We had already enjoyed a welcome dinner in Seoul and tours through Jeonju and Seonyou-do the previous two days, and now only had a few hours left together on our tour. 

Dongguk-sa Main Hall and garden

We began our Gunsan journey by visiting Dongguk-sa (Donguk Temple), Korea's only remaining Japanese temple left behind by Japan's occupation of Korea. The white-and-brown facade of the temple looked markedly different from the colourful Korean temples to which I've grown accustomed. The walled courtyard was paved with small white pebbles and held a carefully manicured garden and artificial pond, in contrast to the tree-lined and more natural dirt courtyards of the Korean temples that I've visited. In their book This is Korea, authors Choi, Jung-wha and Lim, Hyang-ok explain that Japanese gardens are walled, with artificially landscaped mountains, sea, and forest lying within as the Japanese believed the consistency to be aesthetically pleasing. In contrast, the Korean garden allows nature to run free, embracing the changes in landscape and season, and reflecting a reverence for nature. Both are very beautiful, but very different.

In and around the temple, including the main hall

Inside the temple hall, Dongguk-sa's decor was again more muted than its Korean counterparts. The hall had white walls and dark wood floors and rafters, contrasting again to the light floors, red beams, and painted ceilings of the Korean temple. It was interesting to compare and contrast the Dongguk-sa to other Korean temples and it is well-worth the visit for those interested in Korean history during the Japanese occupation, or temple architecture in Korea. 

We had Gunsan's famous marinated crab for lunch

We were eager to learn more about Gunsan's fascinating history only after grabbing a bite to eat - a theme of this trip, I've noticed! We dined on another seafood meal, trying Gunsan's specialty of marinated king crab. I have an adventurous appetite, but I'm afraid the treat wasn't one of my favourites. I did enjoy the other dishes, namely crab roe and rice, spicy seafood soup, and a variety of sides, and once again was stuffed full without even really trying.

Old Gunsan Customs Office

With another massive meal under our belts, we staggered off to the Gunsan Modern History Museum, a bright building with a spacious courtyard overlooking the ocean. The museum is conveniently located near several other interesting sites, including the Old Gunsan Customs Office and a former branch of Japan's eighteenth bank. 


The museum's varied collection is spread out over three floors. On the first level, a lighthouse replica overlooks the spacious lobby and displays about modern fisheries and ocean life. The second level housed a special exhibition about the heartbreaking Okgu farmers' rebellion, when Gunsan area farmers attempted to fight back against the Japanese forces that controlled them. Finally, the third floor replicated the streets of 1930's Gunsan for a special quarterly exhibition called 1930's Time Travel.

Exhibition halls in the Gunsan Modern History Museum

The third floor hall held a mock bank, school, harbour, and theatre. We really enjoyed the interactive exhibit, trying on the costumes of the day and using the various tools on display, including ink stamps and rice scales. I tried on a black and white hanbok and some rubber shoes and posed on a rickshaw for photos. It was a true trip back in time. I was impressed with the museum's English-language signage and general navigability, and I definitely recommend a visit there.

Ema models a hanbok while Han, Annabel, and Gisela take pictures

We continued down the boardwalk from the museum to the Jinpo Marine Theme Park, an outdoor museum dedicated to documenting marine and military history. Here you can check out different models of tanks, planes, helicopters, and boats used during Korea's various military missions, and you can even peruse a museum built into one of the ships. The boat museum showcased miniature battle recreations, military photography, and mock-ups of a ship's living quarters.

Annabel and Ema pose with Korean soldier statues at Jinpo Marine Theme Park

With the day winding down, we knew it would soon be time to part. We made one last stop to peek at a few more Japanese-style homes but unfortunately for us they were under renovation. The spectrum of Japanese influence in Gunsan was very interesting and appealed to the historian in me, so I think I may find myself back in Gunsan soon.

Japanese-style homes in Gunsan

Asif and I then headed to the bus terminal to return to Daegu and Busan. We posed for one last group photo and exchanged hugs and well wishes with the others, now on their way to Seoul. It was truly a phenomenal weekend with wonderful people. Thank you Korea Blog, and my fellow WKBs for our time together and for another wonderful weekend in the Land of Morning Calm!

References: 

Choi, Jung-wha and Lim, Hyang-ok. This is Korea. Hollym Corp. Pulishers; Seoul, Korea, 2011.

Terrific Taipei, Day 1

After a good few months of solid teaching work, I've finally taken a vacation.

I landed in Taipei late Monday night from Busan. My flight was fast and comfortable, and I had no problems navigating the airport. I grabbed a taxi, barely uttering my directions in (some version of) Chinese, and was on my way.

Taipei Airport
(Photo courtesy ofwww.prettypop.net)

I arrived at Xinbeitou, just on the outskirts of Taipei at the end of the MRT train line, and my good friend and host Jenna was waiting to pick me up. We grabbed a tasty noodle and rice dish to share before making our way up the hill to her apartment. The weather was breezy and warm, and exceptionally dry for the winter season, lucky me.

Jenna lives at the top of a large apartment complex about 10 minutes from Xinbeitou station. After a round of hellos with her room-mates and co-workers Phil and Asten, we had a chat and catch-up session before turning in to bed.

The next day I made my way to Shilin and to the Royal Palace Museum, an arts hall which certainly lives up to the name. After a 20-minute subway ride and a 15-minute bus ride, I arrived. The grounds were gorgeous, lined with tall palm trees and the evergreens decorated with lights for Christmas. Large dragon statues sat to the either side of the beautiful white, towering entrance gate. The museum sat perched atop several flights of wide white stairs, and nestled between the tress.

Stone dragon at the entrance of Taipei's Royal Palace Museum

Inside, sadly, no photos were allowed. The museum houses one of the world's largest and finest collections of Asian art. I was fortunate enough to visit during the run of the exhibit, National Treasures. 100 of the museum's most prized peices were featured in full display, including jade carvings, gold Buddha tributes, and calligraphy scrolls. A beautiful exhibit, indeed. By the time I'd finished, about three hours later, it was dusk and the perfect time to photograph the beautiful grounds.

Entrance to Taipei's Royal Palace Museum, lit up for Christmas

The Royal Palace Museum at dusk

After a few snaps, I'd managed to take all of the museum's offerings. I made my way back to Shilin to meet Jenna. I picked up a tasty green onion pancake with cheese and egg, made to order form a street stall on the way for 40 Taiwanese dollars (About 1,500 Korean won or $1.50).

Tasty green onion pancake from a roadside stall

Still peckish, we made our way to "Modern Toilet," a restaurant with a restroom theme.

Dinner, anyone?

Entering the restaurant, we see rows of toilets with novelty seat covers lining the walls, to be used as chairs. Large sinks with glass tops serve as table, and toilet paper holders on the walls dispense tissue. Everything was toilet or poop themed, from the serving ware (tiny toilet bowls and urinals) to the banister posts on the stairs (tiny golden turds). We order a curry chicken dish, cola, and ice cream desert to share. Each comes served in a decidedly disgusting (or funny?) toilet-themed serving dish. The ice cream, served to resemble a swirl comes in a porcelain squat toilet dish. Classy. The whole meal runs us about 297 Taiwanese dollars, about 12,000 Korean won, or $12.

Toilet seating at Modern Toilet restaurant 

Even the stair banisters keep the "toilet" theme

Dinner is served in a bowl... a toilet bowl, that is.

Ice cream in a porcelain squat toilet bowl. Tastier than it may look!

Full, and fully weirded out, Jenna and I called it a night. We made our way back to Beitou by subway, and Jenna drove us to her apartment on her scooter. We made use of the natural sulfur hot spring tubs in the basement of her building for a soak before heading off to bed. All in all, a pleasant and variety-filled day.